An Interview With Paco Robanne

What Are Your Thoughts About The Future?

"We are at the end of 1995 - one + nine + nine + five = 24, which is omega. Now we are about to face the appearance of the omega in the negative sense. If we engage in positive acts we detract power from this negative strength. If, on the other hand, we engage in negative acts, we add power to the negativism. And this negative power is to last about seven years.

"The thoughts and actions of men are going to result in a catastrophe for the planet because the anti-Christ is here and he is being hailed as a very beautiful man with hypnotic powers. The anti-Christ is going to engage in an act of seduction of the people and of their words. And all this sex that we are witnessing around the world is part of the conspiracy to bring this man to power."

What Do You See In The Future For Women?

"In the last 2000 years, women literally have been cheated. It has] been a phase of machismo and in a word - anti-Christian. Women have been manipulated. In the forthcoming era of Aquarius, women finally are going to take power because the age of Aquarius is an era of justice."

What Inspired You To Create A Fragrance?

"I believe it's very important that fashion and fragrance be coherent with the times. My designs, he explains, are for modern women, active women and the women of the sun.

"The woman of the sun represents women of light. And this is why my fashions reflect light. I have incorporated optic fibers, mirrors and transparent substances in many of my newest designs to introduce the element of light.

"We have gone through a very Baroque period in fashion. With heavy night fragrances, oriental, opulent aromatics. A characteristic of Aquarius is light and transparency. That's why there is this trend toward events that are transparent and that reflect light."

What Do You Feel Is Magical About Perfume?

"When baby Jesus was born the Magi brought three things: gold, frankincense and myrrh - two perfumes and one secular material.

"Mary Magdalene invested a great deal of time, according to the books, spreading fragrance on the feet of Jesus and he loved it."

What Do You Believe Is The Future Of Fragrance?

"Despite all that's gone before, we have made a commodity of fragrance, like shoes. In this new era ahead, we at least have to describe the magic and mysticism of fragrance.

"In Buddhist temples they burn incense facing the statue of Buddha.

" In the descriptions of the appearance of the Virgin Mary to children there is an odor of lilies of the valley and roses." Then with startling clarity he confided, "I have experienced an apparition of Mary. There was a shining light, a glaring light in my room and the fragrance of roses and lilies of the valley --- formidable!

"As civilization changes, everything will change. Inter-human relations, fashions, color and fragrances. Relationships between men and animals and vice versa will change. It can be a grand epoch."

Source : Fragrance Foundation

An Interview With Carolina Herrera

It's hard to imagine Carolina Herrera drawing black lines down the backs of her legs to simulate sexy seamed stockings, but she did, and shared this memory with us during a delightful conversation in her office. Of course she was a rebellious teenager at the time. "I wanted to be a vamp like Marlene Dietrich and thought it would be wonderful to wear slinky black gowns, silk-seamed stockings, lots of plumes, and heavy perfume."

How fascinating that these youthful femme fatale fantasies were eventually to be replaced by fashion designs which have been acclaimed from coast to coast for their classic elegance and femininity.

Diana Vreeland, the fashion world's regarded doyenne, was Ms. Herrera's mentor and inspiration. "She literally pushed me into a career of designing," reminisces Ms. Herrera. Seated in her wonderfully comfortable living room-like office, Carolina confided, "I discovered in fashion, and now in fragrance, women aspire to beautiful fantasies. Everything we wear must suits its time. Reality can be virtual. The social context in which fashions are born create new dynamics. Look around you, when you are next in an airport, for instance. The crowd mentality is taking over. too much regimentation. People dress as if they are in the army, in prison. Individuality in fashion is becoming increasingly rare. There is a nervous energy which pull one down and reduces beauty to a hard equation."

It is against these changing social mores that Ms. Herrera spins her magic in fashion and fragrance, determined to perpetuate the pleasures, beauty and saving grace of fantasy.

Carolina Herrera's fragrance adventures actually began when The Fragrance Foundation invited her to be a "FiFi" Awards presenter at the first ceremonies held at Avery Fisher Hall, Lincoln Center in 1985. during the reception, she had the opportunity to talk with Dr. Fernando Aleu, president of Compar, Inc. as well as the Board of the Foundation. As a result, just a few years later, Compar introduced Ms. Herrera's first namesake fragrance which has become one of our industry's success stories.

"In the 90's, we are involved with so many things that women change fragrances like we change fashions. I think it's ridiculous. I've always worn fragrances that express who I am, not what is trendy. I believe that fragrance is part of my personality and style. Part of me. When I was a youngster. I borrowed my mother's favorite. "Joy." I wore it for many years and it certainly was an inspiration when I was able to create my own fragrance. The one thing I believe about fragrance with all my heart is that a woman , or a man, for that matter, should really wear it. Subtlety is not what wearing fragrance is all about. Just as fashion is a fulfilling experience for the eye, fragrance must be the same for the nose."

"Both help you establish your identity. One time, when I was in a taxi in Venezuela, the driver asked me to open the window. He said my fragrance was making him dizzy. I thought that was great. It is the way a woman should wear fragrance. It's a good kind of dizziness. Of course, European women as well as South American have always been fragrance devotees and wear perfume with great panache. In Spain, when a woman or man walks by and smells of scent, everyone turns around. It is that special something that adds to the attraction. I love it."

"Many women like to change their fragrance every day and I applaud them, but for me when I get into a certain fragrance mood, it can last for a very long time, and I wear that same fragrance from morning to night. It's part of my personality."

"As far as American men are concerned, I did my own small research," explained Ms. Herrera, "and found they always wear fragrance on their faces. European men, however are more sophisticated fragrance users. They enjoy spraying it on their shirts or breast pocket handkerchiefs. When they move, they give off an alluring aura." When we talked about the importance of the fashion designer's name on the bottle, Ms. Herrera strongly believes it elicits a lot of attention. "Fashions and fragrance must compliment each other and today's consumer knows that very well."

"When I look at the great classic fragrances, I do admire them and realize that they transcend time and are constantly contemporary. That is always my goal, to create timeless fashions and timeless fragrances." "Not that I ever underestimate the importance of packaging. I am absolutely convinced the bottle and the box must be in harmony with the fragrance. I chose dots to capture the graphic excitement I wanted my packaging to project for Carolina Herrera. My second fragrance "Flore," I felt, should express a completely different personality, and I turned to Andre Ricard, a package designer from Barcelona to capture the mood of this very feminine flowery bouquet. We talked and talked about the meaning and imagery of flowers, my feeling that the bottle should be symbolic of a beautiful woman in a strapless, waist-defining dress. I believe his design is a perfect expression of the qualities I imagined."

Carolina Herrera believes with all her heart, that the designer's responsibility - in fashion and fragrance- is to assure the memorability of the wearer. Her passion and charisma are all pervasive. Her crystal clarity and vision draw one into a world of cool sensory sensations that are reassuring and invigorating at the same time. She is, without question, a woman who exudes the essence of her time.

Source : Fragrance Foundation

The Fascinating Fragrances of Cacharel Perfume

Cacharel perfume is among the most popular in the whole world. Produced in Paris, France, the line grasps some of the most customary perfumes known to the human race today. Cacharel’s founder Jean Bousquet wanted to generate a line of fragrances that are not only womanly, but also well-appointed. Born in 1932, Bousquet started his design career early on at the age of 15 when he served as an novice tailor. In 1958 he opened a tiny store in Paris where he tailored shirts for men. By the early 1960’s, the designer made a decision to turn towards the women’s market, and is accredited for generating the first seersucker blouse.

In 1978 he released the first Cacharel perfume, Anais Anais, which is still considered one of the most well-liked perfumes on the market in our day. The word Cacharel is that of a bird found in Southern France, to mirror beauty, elegance, and grace. Anais Anais is choosen for a Persian goddess of the same name, and the top notes reproduce lily of the valley, jasmine, rose iris, and orange blossoms among others. The fragrance is very light, fresh, and sweet smells. The packaging is very subtle and comes in a breathtaking glass jar with a floral motif.

Cacharel in addition comprises more items as well as scents for men. Nemo was produced in 2000, and is a sharp woody fragrance. The bottle is made of brown glass corresponding to manliness. In 1981, Cacharel for Men was set up and recommended for casual wear. The fragrance has spicy and lavender notes and is a runaway success for men wide-reaching.

Cacharel created Lou Lou for women in 1987. The shiny blue, triangular bottle with a feel of red is an indication of its Oriental flair, and this Cacharel perfume is bursting of rich spices and floral scents. Eden, launched in 1994 is packaged in a fine-looking green bottle and is a refreshing floral scent. Gloria, on the market in 2002 is a bolder, more exotic blend. It contains a mix of vanilla, musk, amaretto, and hibiscus. Amor Amor is one of Cacharel’s most recent creations, launched in 2003. The box has a big picture of a rose on it, representative of its luxurious ingredients of fruits, florals, and woods.

There are some other perfumes created by the line as well, and all are just as successful. Worldwide Cacharel perfume is known as one of the most deluxe high-end perfume producers on the market. The majority of the items can be found at retailers such as Nordstrom, Sephora, and Macy’s, but many are obtainable through online perfumeries as well. The perfumes are not the only items offered by the product. Luxurious soaps, hair and body shampoos, and body oils are also well-liked. Many aromas are even easy to get in roll on deodorant form. Gift sets are also on hand and comprise the original perfume along with a body lotion of the same scent. For the men, Cacharel perfume has also created a line of aftershaves.

An Interview With Top-Class Perfume Bottle Designer

An Interview With Top-Class Perfume Bottle Designer Mr. Pierre Dinand

by Denise Petals

Hello Fragrance-Freaks! How have you guys been? Well, talking about scents, most of us buy the scent for the fact it smells good (Duh!). There are others among us who buy the perfume because of its packaging, I know alot of people reading this bought one of Dali's perfume because of its exaggerated structure, or some other perfume which has captivated you because of the bottle (I am such an impulse buyer too!). Well today, we have an exclusive interview with The Man behind the Bottles. Without this man, your 'Pleasures' or 'Ysatis' bottle might have just ended up in a plain rectangular box! Mr. Pierre Dinand whom we are talking about has created over 450 perfume bottles over a period of 40 years for the most respectable Fragrance Empires in the world- you name it he has worked with them, Dior, YSL, Paco Robanne, Rochas, Givenchy, CK, the list goes on! He is such a talented man that even the Fragrance Foundation had him design their award (FIFI award) which is a much conveted prize among leaders of the American perfume industry.

Mr Dinand was drafted and sent to fight in the paddyfields of Indochina, but he was more interested in art than in fighting. He studied Asian temples and structures which is commonly seen in his works. He even worked with Archeologists in Cambodia! Later, he worked for a chemical company which was about to launch a new product. The package was "hedious" and Mr. Dinand had to re-design it himself; this pleased his Boss. Later on he was appointed by a Contact advertising agency and this was where he met his first client Rochas...the rest is History!

Well we are privileged to have a very humble Mr. Pierre Dinand (who agreed without hesitation to give BB this interview and send me a book on his life and perfumes) telling us about his life, his experiences with perfumes, tips about perfumes and everything we freaks want to find out about the World-of-Scents! So here goes:

1) Why do you think perfume is extremely important, especially in the women's wardrobe?
Perfume is an important accessory, like jewelry or a beautiful dress. Without Perfume, a woman is naked.

2) Which perfume/perfumes a woman/women was wearing captivated you. Tell us about any experience relating to this and what scent was that?
The first Perfume I remember that really triggered an emotion for me was SHALIMAR I had a rendez-vous in a topfloor restaurant in New-York, and then I smelled her Perfume in the Elevator.I knew immediatly she was up there waiting for me...

3) Sir, how did you enter this industry and what do you think one require to do this job?
I did Architecture in the Beaux-Arts School in Paris, but moved to Advertising. My first client was PARFUMS ROCHAS, a beautiful sexy woman. I fell in love... To do this job, one requires a strong artistic background. Sculpture, Architecture, Painting and a good knowledge of history, civilisations different cultures. It helps to live in Paris and to travel as much as I did in Europe to Roma, Venise, Florence,but also all around the world.

4) The most memorable experience in this career?
I had so many experiences in my career, I could write a book about it. Working so closely with the most famous fashion-designers YVES ST LAURENT, BALENCIAGA, BALMAIN, SCHIAPARELLI, CHRISTIAN DIOR, HUBERT DE GIVENCHY, PACO RABANNE, BILL BLASS, GEOFFREY BEENE, CALVIN KLEIN, ARMANI, VALENTINO, FENDI, KARL LAGERFELD, KRIZIA, GUCCI, HERMES and so many other big groups; AVON, REVLON, P&G, LOREAL, UNILEVER and many Japanese companies like KANEBO, POLA, HANAE MORI, KOSE, KAO, CORP...Also working with Annette Green for the Sculpture of the FIFI AWARDS.

The most memorable experience is probably PACO RABANNE explainig his brief for his new fragrance in 1967: My Perfume should reflect a Woman and a Man making love on the back-seat of a Car.... I told him there was not a lot of space, maybe we should choose a big car, he said yes, a Rolls-Royce. And I used from his former idea only the front grill, called CALANDRE in French. Crazy situations like this one happened to me many times and gave me hints and directions to create the bottles.You just have to be patient and carefully listen, something will always come out of an interview with talented gurus.

5) Out of the so-many bottles you have created, which do you love the most and why?
My 6 favorite are CALANDRE, OBSESSION, ETERNITY, OPIUM, MADAME ROCHAS and PLEASURES. Probably because all the elements were united to make a success. It is very much like a jackpot machine. You need the 5 cherries to win. Fragrance - Bottle design - Name - Marketing team - Finance...If one of the cherries is a Banana, you do not get your jackpot and the fragrance is a Flop...

6) This is a toughie! You have met so many gorgeous women in your job experience, who do you think is very beautiful (do define your idea of beautiful please) and who do you think smells the best?(what was she wearing?)
Yes, I fell in love a few times and then things got terribly complicated. Until I married one of them and get stabilized for good. My idea of beautiful, is a mixture of all senses, intelligence, beautiful look, voice, sense of touch, and smell; It should be a right balance with all the senses and she was wearing SHALIMAR.

7) Give us tips: What do you think women should look out for when they are planning to get a scent, especially to have this scent as a signature one?
It depends the hour of the day and the circonstances: An All-day perfume coud be ETERNITY or PLEASURES. An Evening-date would be more YOUTH-DEW, OPIUM or TRESOR.

8) What do you look for in a woman's perfume?
Something I will remember. It is very difficult to remember more than 10 different fragrances. But I do not have 10 different girlfriends, at least not anymore!!! A good trick is to make them wear the same Perfume, it can save a man's life of dangerous situations...

9) Say Calvin Klein calls you to create a bottle for his new scent for women, what does he actually tell you, what infos do you need? Do you have to smell the scent to create the bottle? What actually happens Sir, from the day Calvin Kelin tells you he wants a bottle to the day you create it? We really want to know this!
Calvin first name for his Perfume was..." CLIMAX"..Of course, the bottle was supposed to be very sexy, at the limit of erotism. It could have been bad taste. The concept stayed, though the name had fortunately to be changed, because of the proximity with CLIMAT de LANCOME. The scent was create by ROURE at the same time, and I worked very closely with the Perfumeur JEAN AMIC at the time, to make sure the "JUICE" would match the design, and the coloured surlyn of OBSESSION.

10) Apart from creating perfumes which we all know is a great passion of yours, what are other things you like to do to relax, enjoy?
I always practiced a lot of sports: Ice-Hockey French National Team, Ski, Tennis and Squash, my latest passion Windsurfing and Funboard. I am always looking for vacations in very windy spots, like GARDA LAKE, MAUI North shore, BARBADOS SILVER SANDS, MARGARITA EL YAKE, CAPE HATTERAS or the MISTRAL wind at my house of SAINT-TROPEZ.

11) Sir, if you were not a fragrance bottle designer, what would you have been doing?
Funboard instructor, No I am kidding... Maybe Architect.

12) You choice of scent sir, what do you wear?
COOL-WATER created by my friend the great Perfumeur PIERRE BOURDON. and I did not even designed the bottle...

13) What do you think are the changes you see in perfume trends over the decades- from the 60s when you started creating till this day? Which trend of scent did you like the best and why please?
Since the 60s, Women started to work and needed lighter fragrances, until mid-70s, when suddenly very strong fragrances appeared like OPIUM, GIORGIO, POISON. GIORGIO was obviously too strong. It is the first time I saw signs in restaurants. NO SMOKING NO GIORGIO. I never saw any other Fragrances namely mentioned in such a way; Did you?
[I read in a magazine that a French Restaurant did not allow people with Poison perfume in..hmmm..Ed]

14) So do you like the women with the rich, heady scent like Madame Rochas,Volupte and Poison or the lighter scents like Pleasures?
I prefer the lighter scents like Pleasures or Eternity

15) Your all-time favoutire woman's perfume? The best perfume you think ever created?
I can recognize and I like OPIUM and OBSESSION because I did the bottles, I now prefer the lighter scents like PLEASURES and ETERNITY which I created both of them also I must confess it is very exciting for me to have been part of so many extraordinary ventures. I just cannot believe it when I think about it.

It is like it was created by another person, not me. I was a spectator of what was happening to me. I never visited people to ask for a job, they came to me. The best Perfume ever created is undoubtedly CHANEL #5 , and still Nr.one in the world, because of an excellent JackPot, which continues with the same team and same owners for 78 years. ESTEE LAUDER is also a good example of longevity and continuity.

16) Your favoutire scent category-
Floral/ Oriental/ Floral Oriental/ Spicy/Green/Transparent etc
Floral/Oriental -OPIUM , Spicy Green Transparent-ETERNITY

17) Your fave perfume for day wear and evening wear?
Day wear PLEASURES Evening SHALIMAR

18) Which perfume do you think best describes these words Sir?

-Sexy ---- OBSESSION
-Beautiful ----- CHANEL #5
-Romantic ----- L'AIR DU TEMPS
-Bold ----- TRESOR
-Feminine ----- MADAME ROCHAS
-Exotic ----- MITSOUKO
-Seductive ----- GIORGIO
-Innocent ----- CK ONE
-Trendy ----- ETERNITY
-Classy & Sophisticated ----- SHALIMAR
-Dainty & Demure ----- COOL WATER
-Wild Party Girl ----- OPIUM

19) Your plans for the future Sir?
My plans for the future: continue to work at a very limited pace as a counselor for one Perfume once a year; Take care of my PIERRE DINAND Museum in Japan and go windsurfing to these fantastic places surrounded by gorgeous women smelling Coconut, PinaColada, Vanilla and Tiare flowers, Yum.. Yum!

I must add something I want to say; When I started this activity in 1959, 40 years ago, I had no competitors, one GUERICOLAS just died of a heart attack. And a group of talented designers in New-York SCHWARTZ & WASIN disappeared rapidly. I was lucky to meet so many talented people who perfectioned my knowledge in all aspects of Art. If I had to mention only a few names who brought me the best rewards for my work, it would be: YVES ST LAURENT, HUBERT DE GIVENCHY, GIORGIO ARMANI, ROBIN BURNS, CALVIN KLEIN & ANNETTE GREEN.

BeautyBuzz Thanks Mr.Pierre Dinand for this exclusive interview and wishes him all the best for the future!

Source : Beauty Buzz

Hantu Minyak Wangi

Cinta Dynas pada wangian berputik tatkala menerima pemberian daripada seseorang peminat rahsia ketika usianya 14 tahun. Selepas sedekad, cintanya tetap mekar.

DENGAN hanya satu semburan, mampu menceriakan mood yang suram, menghilangkan stres dan tekanan yang dihadapi.
Malah, haruman juga boleh menjadi tarikan pertama terhadap anda dan perkara yang paling diingati.
Bagi model, pelakon dan pengacara, Wan Intan Edrinas Wan Mokhtar atau lebih dikenali sebagai Dynas, 25 'cintanya' terhadap minyak wangi mekar sejak di bangku sekolah menengah.
"Ketika itu saya berusia 14 tahun dan mendapat sebotol minyak wangi, Cool Water Davidoff daripada seorang peminat rahsia.
"Itulah minyak wangi pertama yang saya terima." "Seperti yang kita tahu, harga sebotol minyak wangi bukan murah, sebab itu saya teringat hingga kini," kata Dynas ketika ditemui Kosmo! baru-baru ini.
Hadiah pertama itu telah memberikan impak yang besar dalam kehidupannya.
"Mula-mula saya ingat hanya golongan dewasa yang dibenarkan memakai minyak wangi.
"Tetapi masa saya menerima botol pertama itu, barulah saya sedar bahawa terdapat wangian yang boleh dipakai oleh mereka yang lebih muda," kata wanita tinggi lampai ini lagi.

Dynas memberitahu, minatnya terhadap minyak wangi turut dipengaruhi oleh rakan-rakan rapatnya.
"Adakalanya kami akan menghadiahkan minyak wangi kepada rakan-rakan sempena hari lahir mereka. Minyak wangi merupakan satu hadiah yang istimewa."
Dynas yang merupakan Duta Pesta dan Anugerah Wangian Sasa 2008 mengakui dirinya sebagai 'hantu' minyak wangi dengan kepelbagaian koleksi yang telah dikumpul sejak bertahun-tahun lamanya.
Dynas berkata, menjadi duta kepada produk barangan yang diminatinya sejak remaja merupakan satu penghargaan.
"Pesta dan anugerah ini memberi peluang kepada pengguna memilih minyak wangi yang dibahagikan kepada beberapa kategori.
"Di sini kita dapat melihat pasaran wangian dipengaruhi bukan sahaja daripada faktor haruman tetapi juga reka bentuk dan pakej, haruman lelaki dan wanita yang paling digemari ramai dan yang menjadi pilihan pasangan serta selebriti."
Beliau mengakui, terdapat puluhan botol minyak wangi pelbagai jenama tersusun rapi di atas meja soleknya.
Sejak menerima wangian pertama, sehingga kini, dia tidak pernah gagal membeli minyak wangi terbaru di pasaran.
"Setiap kali ada jualan murah atau apabila hampir dengan sambutan perayaan saya akan membeli haruman-haruman ini.
"Saya amat mudah dipengaruhi dengan bungkusan yang dihias indah terutama apabila ia mempunyai warna dan botol yang menarik," kata Dynas.
Dynas mengakui akan membeli wangian baru sungguh pun terdapat haruman di rumah yang masih belum digunakan.
Selain hobi, Dynas juga akan membeli minyak wangi untuk menggembirakan hatinya atau apabila mendapat berita buruk.
Di rumah pakai minyak wangi
Apakah faktor yang menyebabkan Dynas begitu menggemari minyak wangi?
"Minyak wangi mampu mewakili karakter dan personaliti setiap individu yang memakainya.
"Bagi saya, memakai minyak wangi adalah rutin yang wajib. Ia seperti memakai deodoran. Tanpanya, keadaan diri umpama tidak lengkap, keyakinan diri saya akan hilang."

Kata Dynas, badan yang harum juga memudahkan orang ramai mendekati diri seseorang.
"Terutamanya bagi seseorang selebriti atau mereka yang menjadi tumpuan, kita tidak mahu orang kata kita mempunyai masalah bau badan pula. Oleh yang demikian, adalah penting untuk memilih haruman yang betul-betul sesuai."
Wanita setinggi 170 sentimeter ini berkata, beliau akan memakai wangian walaupun berada di rumah.
Menggemari minyak wangi yang mempunyai haruman flora dengan ciri-ciri romantis dan manis, Dynas berkata, pilihannya itu memberikan perasaan paling sempurna melambangkan dirinya yang sebenar - bercita rasa muda.
"Sungguhpun telah berusia 25 tahun, namun perangai saya agak keanak-anakan. Itu yang menyebabkan saya sukakan haruman yang bagi sesetengah pihak sebagai 'tidak matang'.
"Saya tidak sukakan bauan yang terlalu eksotik atau menggoda dan sitrus. Bagi saya, bau flora adalah pilihan yang paling tepat."
Dalam pemilihan minyak wangi, Dynas tidak terburu-buru membeli sungguh pun tarikan utama tertumpu pada bentuk botol dan pembungkusan.
"Minyak wangi mempunyai reaksi yang berbeza bagi kulit setiap individu. Ia mungkin berbau enak kepada orang lain, tetapi tidak pada diri anda.
"Apabila saya ingin membeli suatu haruman, saya akan mencubanya terlebih dahulu selama setengah atau sejam. Apabila saya merasakan ia sesuai, barulah saya beli," katanya.
Apakah haruman kegemarannya?
"Daisy daripada Marc Jacob dan Gucci Rush daripada Gucci."
"Saya biasanya memakai haruman yang berbeza, bergantung pada acara yang dihadiri. Tetapi perkara terbaik pada Daisy ialah ia sesuai digunakan sama ada pada hari siang mahu pun malam.
"Satu lagi, baunya yang tahan lama."
Dynas menambah, Gucci Rush mampu menarik perhatian sesiapa sahaja yang berhampiran.
"Bau Gucci Rush tidak boleh dikesan serta-merta tetapi hanya selepas beberapa saat si pemakai melintas di hadapan anda.
"Disebabkan terlalu menyukainya, suami telah memberikan saya sebotol minyak wangi itu sebelum kami berkahwin," kata Dynas. Suaminya juga meminati botol minyak wangi.

Apakah bauan yang tidak dilupakan Dynas?
"Pastinya bau Boss Pure daripada Hugo Boss yang dipakai oleh suami. Beliau telah memakai bau itu sejak kami bertemu ketika saya mengacara Beat TV di Astro sehingga hari ini.
"Suami sangat cerewet dengan cologne yang dibeli, jika beliau sukakan satu bau, itulah yang akan dipakainya sepanjang masa," kata pemegang Diploma Komunikasi Massa dari Universiti Teknologi Mara (UiTM) ini.
Dynas mempunyai tip kepada mereka yang ingin membeli minyak wangi.
"Jangan beli sesuatu hanya berdasarkan stail atau trend terbaru tetapi pada hakikatnya tidak sesuai dengan diri kita.
"Minyak wangi seharusnya menyerlahkan lagi personaliti kita, bukan menenggelamkannya. Pastikan anda mencubanya sebelum membeli."

Sumber : Ehoza

Pesona Haruman Dior

HARUMAN hebat membangkitkan kesegaran serta meningkatkan keyakinan dan personaliti diri.

Begitulah wanita dan minyak wangi bagaikan satu kombinasi menarik dan saling memerlukan. Setiap kali melangkah keluar rumah, minyak wangi menjadi kemestian untuk tampil anggun dan mempesona.


Semerbak haruman pada tubuh bukan saja menjadikan kehidupan menjadi ceria, tetapi membuatkan hari lebih bermakna.

Tiada siapa dapat menyangkal keasyikan sesuatu haruman minyak wangi lantas bagi penggemar minyak wangi, setiap haruman cukup istimewa dan mempunyai sentimen tersendiri.

Diilhamkan untuk wanita moden dan glamor, wangian Dior, J'adore L'absolu ternyata mempunyai tarikan.

Minyak wangi direka pakar minyak wangi Dior, Francois Demachy, menerbitkan bauan bunga oriental dengan haruman memikat dan memberikan suasana kedamaian pada diri.

Dengan sentuhan jiwa moden, semburan J'adore L'absolu membawa elemen seksi, manakala warnanya begitu eksotik dan membangkitkan kemanisan pada si pemakainya.

Antara rumusan sensasi ada pada haruman baru ini adalah gabungan bunga melur Arab, bunga ylang ylang yang boleh didapati di kebanyakan negara tropika, bunga tuberose dan bunga ros Turki yang nyata membangkitkan kesegaran.

Sesuai sentuhan haruman diva, wangian J'adore L'absolu didatangkan dalam bekas gaya kontemporari mewah.

Warna keemasan botolnya menarik tumpuan dari jauh manakala kotaknya menonjolkan ia wangian personaliti yang bergaya dan mesti dimiliki.

Bagi peminat koleksi wangian Ralph Lauren, rangkaian minyak wanginya sentiasa diperbaharui dengan bau, warna menarik selain didatangkan dengan rekaan bekas lebih unik.

Istimewa buat wanita, jenama wangian terkenal itu memperkenalkan koleksi haruman terbaru Notorious yang didatangkan dalam botol menarik.

Minyak wangi itu antara lain digabungkan menerusi campuran bunga, buah dan rempah seperti bergamot, anggur, coklat serta vanila.

Menerusi semburan yang kekal lama, diri seakan dibuai mimpi indah dan memberikan kedamaian.

Untuk minyak wangi J'adore L'absolu, ia didatangkan dalam bekas 50 mililiter (ml) pada harga RM300 dan boleh didapati di semua kaunter Dior.

Koleksi Notorious pula didatangkan dalam bekas 50ml pada harga RM239 dan 75ml (RM300) serta losyen badan 200ml (RM159) yang boleh didapati di semua gedung beli-belah terkemuka.

Sumber : Harian Metro Online

Revolusi Industri Minyak Wangi

ARKIB : 02/11/2008

Oleh BINTU RASYADA A. RAHMAN

JIKA dahulu industri minyak wangi dimonopoli oleh pereka fesyen dan pengasas kosmetik, namun kini trendnya sedikit berubah. Nama-nama besar industri ini masih mengungguli pasaran, namun dalam masa yang sama diberi saingan sengit oleh jenama baru di bawah label selebriti atau bintang-bintang popular.

Pengaruh golongan ini sememangnya tidak boleh disangkal. Dengan kemilau dan kemasyhuran yang dimiliki tidak hairanlah jenama mereka turut mempunyai pengikutnya yang tersendiri.

Bagi Anugerah Haruman Sa Sa 2008, dua jenama tersenarai dalam kategori Haruman Selebriti Terbaik iaitu Midnight Fantasy oleh Britney Spears dan Deseo Forever oleh Jennifer Lopez.

Midnight Fantasy adalah haruman keempat himpunan jenama milik bintang pop, Britney Spears. Inspirasi kehidupan pemiliknya yang penuh kemilau dan menggoda, ia direka khas untuk wanita yang mempunyai daya penarik dan godaan tersendiri serta membuatkan anda sentiasa memerlukannya. Gabungan haruman buah-buahan mengungkap misteri keinginan dan tarikan, begitu juga dengan adunan bunga-bungaan dan ambar hitam, menghasilkan ciptaan Midnight Fantasy yang sukar dilupakan.

Deseo Forever pula sehangat empunya nama, Jennifer Lopez. Deseo bermaksud desire iaitu keinginan, harapan atau impian. Ia dihasilkan untuk memberi inspirasi dalam menggapai impian, agar si pemakai tidak pernah berhenti daripada berusaha memperoleh apa yang mereka inginkan. Ia campuran buah-buahan seperti epal, pic dan oren, diselang seli dengan haruman bunga-bungaan seperti magnolia dan mawar di samping kesturi, bergamot, patchouli dan pelbagai lagi. Kesegaran dan keharumannya bak taman semerbak di pagi tatkala musim panas.

Selain kategori Haruman Selebriti Terbaik, Anugerah Haruman Sa Sa 2008 turut menyenaraikan kategori Haruman Tahun 2008 yang mana pencalonannya terdiri daripada Pure oleh Boss, Diamond (Emporio Armani), Daisy (Marc Jacobs) dan Princess (Vera Wang).

Tentunya kategori ini menjanjikan saingan sengit memandangkan keempat-empat pencalonan mempunyai kekuatan tersendiri.

Pure oleh BOSS diinspirasi daripada idea lelaki bersatu dengan kuasa air. Ia sederhana namun sofistikated, segar lagi menyeronokkan. Dengan haruman bertenaga, Pure mengungkap rasa sensual dan emosi seperti kuasa air yang suci dan sukar dihalang. Jejaka Pure sangat mementingkan stail, bercita-cita tinggi, kompetitif dan berjaya. Dengan kesegaran semula jadi akuatik, nota utama diserlahkan oleh air pokok ara, dengan kombinasi sitrus Mediterranean, menyerlahkan kesegaran yang menyeronokkan. Juga di tambah haruman kayu massoia, untuk menyerlahkan karakter maskulin.

Permata pula adalah inspirasi haruman Diamond oleh Emporio Armani. Wanita Diamond menjalani kehidupannya seperti sesuatu acara yang sedang berlangsung. Dia tidak pernah menyekat keinginannya. Seperti permata yang merupakan unsur paling keras, ia lambang kekuatan, kemewahan, glamor, kecantikan, kuasa dan kejayaan. Menurut Giorgio Armani, beliau mahukan haruman yang menyerlahkan kilauan, kekuatan, kebijaksanaan dan keseksian dalam rangkaian wanita Emporio Armani. Dengan itu terhasillah Diamond, haruman menggabungkan mawar, laici, rasberi dan juga campuran kayu-kayan serta ambar.

Daisy oleh Marc Jacobs pula seakan matahari yang bersinar. Ia lambang semangat keremajaan yang bercahaya, gembira, bebas, segar dan ringkas menawan. Daisy bak pengembaraan ke tempat suci dan tanpa pengaruh sesiapa. Harumannya diadun daripada jambangan buang-bungaan yang menyerlah unsur kewanitaan di samping bahan semula jadi seperti strawberi liar, daun violet dan limau gedang. Turut dibaluti kesturi, vanila dan kayu putih bagi menghasilkan nota yang seimbang lagi memikat.

Manakala Princess oleh Vera Wang pula memikat namun aneh. Bermula dengan unsur magis dan mistik kepada berani dan mempesona. Ia menggambarkan keberanian untuk menggelar diri sebagai permaisuri, Princess adalah semangat baru dalam haruman. Meraikan kewanitaan moden, ia dihasilkan untuk memerintah. Kaya dengan vanila, melimpah dengan pati bunga eksotik dan buah-buahan menjadikan ia haruman yang cukup memikat.

Haruman manakah bakal dinobatkan Haruman Selebriti Terbaik dan Haruman Tahun 2008? Anda boleh menjadi penentunya. Jangan lupa menyertai roadshow dan pelbagai aktiviti yang akan diadakan di North Court, Mid Valley Kuala Lumpur pada 14 hingga 18 November ini. Antaranya sesi Sense of Smell, Feel the Bottle dan sesi soal jawab. Bengkel yang akan dijalankan bertajuk Haruman Terbaik Britney Spears dan Mitos & Fakta Mengenai Haruman.

Setiap pembelian haruman sepanjang pameran dan anugerah berlangsung, sebanyak RM1 akan didermakan kepada Pertubuhan Kebajikan Kanser Payu Dara.

Sumber : Utusan Malaysia Online

Allergies and Perfume

There are various elements that are considered in the preparation of any perfume. If you are buying perfume, it is worth being able to understand what the perfume manufacturer displays on the bottle. To make the right choice, it is worth knowing what to look for. No one would eat food that was not clearly labelled, yet many people are uncertain of their perfume ingredients or the preparation methods that create them. This is particularly important in modern times when pollution levels have increased sensitivity and allergy levels.

Firstly, the concentrate of the blend of the perfume that you choose has a high impact on allergies. If you have intolerance to the ingredients that create the fragrance, then you can control this to a degree. The lowest concentrated blend is found in Eau de Cologne, which has a maximum of 5% pure perfume ingredients. This means that any reaction will be minimal in comparison to the other strength perfumes that are available. The next lowest strength perfume is Eau de Toilette which has a concentration of between 4% and 10% of perfume ingredients. The Eau de Perfume will contain between 8% and 15% pure perfume, whilst any labelled Perfume is the strongest with between 15% and 25% pure strength ingredients.

All perfumes must state the level of potency on the packaging. Make sure you are aware of the strength, and try a lighter compound if you have any adverse reactions. If you have a reaction to all of the above strengths, then you will need to consider other factors.

Another reason behind an allergy or reaction may be the ingredients used in the perfume to create the fragrance. Synthetic perfume sometimes contains synthetic scents. These synthetic scents are created to mimic a natural smell, but can be more easily controlled. Some natural ingredients are evanescent or short lasting, and so synthetics are used to make the perfume have more staying power. They also increase the life span of the perfume, as synthetic ingredients have a longer shelf life. Although the perfume and its ingredients are rigorously tested, there may still be an adverse reaction in some perfume wearers. If this is the case, then look for perfumes that contain natural ingredients only.

It may not be the perfume causing the reaction, but the base ingredients. If you have an allergy to the carrier alcohols in perfume, then natural perfume is your best option. These will be labelled as either `natural` or `botanical` perfume and these are becoming much easier to find. The reason behind this is the rising interest in global environmental and health issues. Natural perfume is oil and water based, and will not contain any synthetic ingredients. This reduces the likelihood of allergic reactions. These have many advantages in that the perfume is often organic and environmentally friendly also. However, the disadvantage is that the perfume does not last as long as the synthetic types; a small price to pay, however, for well being.

Finally, the allergy may actually be due to the natural ingredients. There is a misconception that all natural things are safe and good for you, but in reality this is not necessarily true. Most natural oils in their purest form should not make contact directly with skin, as they would be harmful. If certain pure oils have an adverse effect on you, then make sure you only buy perfume that does not contain them. If you suddenly develop intolerance to a perfume that you have previously used, consider other factors in your environment such as a change in temperature, diet or even washing powder.

The best thing to do when buying perfume is to make sure you are aware of the ingredients, and make sure you buy according to what suits your skin type. If you do suffer a reaction from perfume, consider the elements outlined above and try to determine the cause. Once the cause is found, it can be eliminated by choosing a perfume that is right for you.

This article is under GNU FDL license and can be distributed without any previous authorization from the author. However the author's name and all the URLs (links) mentioned in the article and biography must be kept.

This article can also be accessed in portuguese language from the Article section of page www.polomercantil.com.br/perfume-fragrancia.php
Roberto Sedycias works as IT consultant for www.PoloMercantil.com.br

Written By : Roberto Sedycias

Source : Wellness 2 U

Bunga Melur Ramuan Minyak Wangi

August 3rd, 2007

BUNGA melur atau disebut melati adalah tanaman bunga hias yang banyak kegunaannya terutama membuat minyak wangi. Di Itali, melati casablanca (Jasmine officinalle) yang disebut Spansish Jasmine ditanam pada 1692 untuk dijadikan parfum. Pada 1665 bunga melati putih (J sambac) pula diperkenalkan oleh Duke Casimo de’ Meici di England. Pada 1919 pula, ditemukan melati J parkeri di kawasan barat laut India.Di Indonesia, nama melur dikenal sebagai menuh oleh masyarakat Bali, meulu atau meulu Cina (Aceh), menyuru (Banda), melur (Gayo dan Batak Karo), manduru (Menado), mundu (Bima dan Sumbawa) dan manyora (Timor) dan malete (Madura).

Di antara 200 jenis melur yang telah diidentifikasi ahli botani, hanya sembilan jenis melati yang diketahui dan daripada jumlah itu, lapan jenis melati berpotensi dijadikan tanaman hias.

Syarat pertumbuhan:

· Cuaca: Curahan hujan 112–119 mm/bulan dengan 6–9 hari hujan/bulan, serta mempunyai iklim dengan dua hingga tiga bulan kering dan lima hingga enam bulan lembap. Suhu udara siang hari 28-36 darjah C dan suhu udara malam hari 24-30 darjah C.

Kelembapan udara (RH) yang sesuai untuk tanaman ini 50 hingga 80 peratus. Selain itu pengembangan melati paling sesuai di tempat yang mendapat sinar mata hari yang cukup.

· Tanah: Pokok melati memerlukan tanah yang bertekstur pasir sampai liat, gembur dan banyak mengandung bahan organik dan memiliki. Darjah keasaman tanah yang baik bagi pertumbuhan tanaman ini adalah pH=5–7.

· Kawasan: Tanaman melur dapat tumbuh dan berproduksi dengan baik di dataran rendah sampai dataran tinggi pada ketinggian 10 meter hingga 1,600 meter dari paras laut. Meskipun demikian, tiap jenis melati mempunyai daya adaptasi tersendiri terhadap lingkungan tumbuh.

Melur putih (J sambac) sesuai ditanam di dataran rendah hingga ketinggian 600 meter manakala melati Star Jasmine (J multiflorum) dapat hidup subur hingga ketinggian 1,600 meter.

Tanaman melati mulai berbunga pada umur 7 hingga 12 bulan setelah ditanam. Bunga melati boleh dipetik sepanjang tahun secara berkali-kali sampai umur tanaman antara lima hingga 10 tahun. Setiap tahun, tempoh melur berbunga ialah 12 minggu (tiga bulan).

Bunga melati agak lebat pada dua minggu pertama. Selepas itu produksi bunga akan menurun dan dua bulan kemudian meningkat lagi.

Melur umumnya tumbuh menjalar, kecuali pada beberapa jenis melati seperti Grand Duke of tuscany yang tumbuh menegak. Ketinggiannya bergantung pada jenisnya. Melati putih (J sambac) dapat dipangkas pada ketinggian 75 sm dari permukaan tanah, sedangkan jenis melati Spnish Jasmine (J officinale var grandiflorum) setinggi 90 sm.

Teknik Penanaman:

JIKA mahu ditanam di kawasan taman, olah tanah dengan cara dicangkul sedalam 30-40 sentimeter hingga gembur, kemudian biarkan selama 15 hari sebelum memasukkan anak pokok melur untuk ditanam.

Cara Penanaman: Jarak tanam dapat bervariasi, tergantung pada bentuk kultur budi daya, kesuburan tanah dan jenis melati yang ditanam, bentuk kultur perkebunan jarak tanam umumnya adalah 1 x 1,5 meter, sedang variasi lainnya adalah 40 x 40 sm, 40 x 25 sm dan 100 x 40 sm.

FAKTA

· Nama: Bunga Melur

· Nama botani: Jasminum sambac

· Famili: Oleaceae.

· Keistimewaan: Bahan buat minyak wangi, kosmetik, farmasi, penghias rangkaian bunga dan bahan campuran mengharumkan teh.

Sumber : http://www.fazlisyam.com

Fragrance Facts

A woman knows the power of a fragrance. A simple trace of a scent can evoke a wonderful memory. A favorite perfume is more than essential oils and aromatic compounds. It is a reflection of a woman’s personality, her mood and her style. In short, it is an expression of her beauty. It’s no wonder then that finding the perfect perfume for any occasion is as essential as the oils that go into it.

But with the number of fragrances available today, how do you find just the right one? We’ve broken down the basics to give you a general understanding of perfumery and help you make sense of it all.

Fragrances contain a wide variety of ingredients which vary not only in how they smell, but also in their “staying power” on the skin. Perfumers identify three parts of a fragrance called notes.

-The top note is the first impression of the fragrance. It is the initial impact of the scent on the sense of smell.
-The middle note is the heart of the fragrance which unfolds and develops a few minutes after the perfume is applied to the skin.
-The bottom note is the final impression of the fragrance and can last several hours after the fragrance is applied.

To help identify their aromas and attributes, fragrances are classified by type or family. Fragrance families cover a wide spectrum of scents such as Floral, Oriental and Chypre (pronounced she-pra).

-The Floral family includes a diverse bouquet of aromas that range from a light.
-Floral Sheer to a sweet Floral Fruity and a spicy Floral.
-Floral Oriental combines floral aromas with hints of sweet and spicy notes.
-Fragrances in the Oriental Sheer family include a light blend of traditional oriental notes.
-Chypre fragrances include a mixture of pine, lavender, citrus and mossy notes.

To get the most out of your fragrance, try the following tips.

-Scents rise. So start spritzing at your ankles. Move to the backs of your knees or wrists and then to the nape of your neck or behind your ears. For a final touch, spritz a comb and run it through your hair.
-Lotions may be applied to the skin before applying fragrance to extend its wear time.
-Whether lightly spritzed or luxuriously layered, fragrances have a wonderful way of enhancing a woman’s beauty and her signature style.

Source : Lipstick Collection

Do You Know Perfumes?

What perfume is considered to be the first 'oriental'?
Shalimar (Guerlain). Shalimar,introduced in 1925, is considered to be the first modern oriental. Opium was introduced in 1977, Poison - in 1985 and Aprege is not an Oriental, but a floral-aldehydic perfume.

Who was the first female to produce a designer perfume?
Coco Chanel. Coco Chanel was first (with N 5), Jeanne Lanvin was second, but neither Arden, nor Lauder had ever been clothing designers.

What is the so-called capital of world perfumery?
Grasse. Everyone who is serious about perfumes knows that the cradle and the capital of modern perfumery is in Grasse, a small town in Provence, France!

Which one of these is not a French perfume house?
Laura Biagiotti. Laura Biagiotti, whose designer house produced wonderful perfumes Laura, Roma, Sotto Voce, Tempore, etc. is an Italian designer, but her perfume house is based in Germany.

Which famous actress was in the ads for Chanel N 5?
Catherine Deneuve. Audrey Hepburn was always a Givenchy girl, Sophie Marceau is in the Guerlain ads, and Sharon Stone never posed for a perfume ad as of June 2000. So, it used to be (among others) the lovely Catherine Deneuve.

What popular perfume has a star-shaped flacon?
Angel. Angel is the famous gourmand perfume hidden in gorgeous star-shaped bottles.

Which of these popular perfumes was designed to celebrate the lifestyle of California and is considered to be an all-american perfume?
Giorgio. Although the wrong answers might seem more modern and all-american, Giorgio was the biggest American success in perfumery, and epitomises the American style of sheer perfumes (i.e. perfumes without head-heart-bottom note definitions)


What was the first jewelry company to introduce a brand name fragrance?
Van Cleef and Arpels. In 1976 Van Cleef and Arpels introduced 'First' - a very appropriate name for the first perfume by jewelers.

What was the first Dior fragrance ?
Miss Dior. Christian Dior dedicated his first perfume venture to his sister, producing Miss Dior in 1947. Why Miss and not Mademoiselle? Dior was an admitted anglomaniac.

Which one of these famous fragrances smells almost entirely of lily of the valley?
Diorissimo. Poison is an oriental, Beautiful and Red Door are floral, but of much heavier nature. Diorissimo is the most classic example of a fragrance, inspired by lily of the valley.

Essences of which flowers are the most commonly used in perfumery?
rose and jasmin. Almost every perfume contains rose and jasmin extracts, they are staples in the perfumer's palette.

Which of these perfume houses is not American?
Shiseido. I think you all guessed that one. Shiseido is the most famous Japanese brand of cosmetics and fragrances, although a lot of their products are manufactured in the States.

The first eau de cologne was made in ...?
Cologne. Although Italians also claim to be the first, usually Germany and its city Cologne (Köln) is considered to be the cradle.

What is best fragrance option for hot summer days (think of general rules, not personal preferences)?
a citrus or an aquatic fragrance. You'll feel much better if you choose either a citrus, or an aquatic for summer.A light (!) floral is OK too.

Which one of these flacons would be of the highest value for collectors?
a limited edition in its original packaging. Although a lot of people love miniatures and collect them, true collectors seek failures or limited editons of popular ones unopened and with a proper packaging!

How many ingredients might a modern perfume contain?
thousands. Right now thousands of ingredients (mostly chemicals) are used.

What famous perfume bottle is topped by two doves?
L'Air du Temps. Two doves kissing adorn the classic Rene Lalique bottle of L'air du Temps ( Nina Ricci)

What are the aldehydes?
organic chemicals. Aldehydes, which were very popular in the 1930 through 1960s are organic chemicals derived from natural synthetic materials. They add a vivid quality to top notes. Classic example of an aldehydic perfume - Chanel N 5, of course. N 5 was the first floral fragrance to comtain a lot of aldehydes.

Now perfumers use synthetic musk, but they used to get it from the ...?
musk deer & deer& deer (musk). Musk deers are so rare right now that perfumers are forced to make a synthetic substitute.

How many 'numbered' fragrances does Chanel have?
three. There are three - N 5, N 19 and N 22.

Source : Fun Trivia

NCER Punyai Potensi Industri Minyak Wangi

ARKIB : 02/12/2008

PADANG BESAR 1 Dis. - Industri minyak wangi antara yang dikenal pasti berpotensi dilaksanakan di dalam kawasan Wilayah Ekonomi Koridor Utara (NCER), kata Penasihat Khas kepada Perdana Menteri Bagi NCER, Datuk Seri Shahidan Kassim hari ini.

Menurutnya, minyak wangi bukan sahaja mendapat permintaan yang tinggi di dalam dan luar negara, malah harganya juga tinggi sehingga mencecah RM3,500 bagi setiap 12 mililiter (ml) di negara-negara di Timur Tengah.

"Industri minyak wangi adalah cadangan Perdana Menteri yang mahu kewujudan industri yang unik dan berpotensi dilaksanakan." katanya selepas melawat kilang pemprosesan pengeluaran pati gaharu, Hayat Green (M) Sdn. Bhd. di Batu Bertangkup, Chuping dekat sini, hari ini.

Di negara ini, katanya, tidak banyak syarikat yang mengusahakan pengeluaran pati gaharu bagi membuat minyak atar dan sekiranya ada, ia dilakukan secara kontrak dengan negara luar dan patinya dihantar ke sana seterusnya mendapat jenama di negara tersebut.

"Saya telah berbincang dengan Ketua Pegawai Eksekutif Pihak Berkuasa Pelaksanaan Koridor Utara (NCIA) (Datuk Seri Mohd Anuar Zaini) dan pengurusan NCER bagi memberi penekanan dalam projek penghasilan minyak atar ini dan projek lain yang sedang dilaksanakan," katanya.

Beliau juga akan berbincang dengan pemimpin utama di setiap negeri yang berada di bawah projek NCER bagi menyediakan tapak untuk dijadikan kawasan industri pengeluaran minyak wangi.

- Bernama

Sumber : Utusan Melayu Online

How Perfumes Are Made?

Raw Materials

Natural ingredients—flowers, grasses, spices, fruit, wood, roots, resins, balsams, leaves, gums, and animal secretions—as well as resources like alcohol, petrochemicals, coal, and coal tars are used in the manufacture of perfumes. Some plants, such as lily of the valley, do not produce oils naturally. In fact, only about 2,000 of the 250,000 known flowering plant species contain these essential oils. Therefore, synthetic chemicals must be used to re-create the smells of non-oily substances. Synthetics also create original scents not found in nature.

Some perfume ingredients are animal products. For example, castor comes from beavers, musk from male deer, and ambergris from the sperm whale. Animal substances are often used as fixatives that enable perfume to evaporate slowly and emit odors longer. Other fixatives include coal tar, mosses, resins, or synthetic chemicals. Alcohol and sometimes water are used to dilute ingredients in perfumes. It is the ratio of alcohol to scent that determines whether the perfume is "eau de toilette" (toilet water) or cologne.

The Manufacturing Process

Collection

1. Before the manufacturing process begins, the initial ingredients must be brought to the manufacturing center. Plant substances are harvested from around the world, often hand-picked for their fragrance. Animal products are obtained by extracting the fatty substances directly from the animal. Aromatic chemicals used in synthetic perfumes are created in the laboratory by perfume chemists.

Extraction
Oils are extracted from plant substances by several methods: steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression.

2. In steam distillation, steam is passed through plant material held in a still, whereby the essential oil turns to gas. This gas is then passed through tubes, cooled, and liquified. Oils can also be extracted by boiling plant substances like flower petals in water instead of steaming them.

3. Under solvent extraction, flowers are put into large rotating tanks or drums and benzene or a petroleum ether is poured over the flowers, extracting the essential oils. The flower parts dissolve in the solvents and leave a waxy material that contains the oil, which is then placed in ethyl alcohol. The oil dissolves in the alcohol and rises. Heat is used to evaporate the alcohol, which once fully burned off, leaves a higher concentration of the perfume oil on the bottom.

4. During enfleurage, flowers are spread on glass sheets coated with grease. The glass sheets are placed between wooden frames in tiers. Then the flowers are removed by hand and changed until the grease has absorbed their fragrance.

5. Maceration is similar to enfleurage except that warmed fats are used to soak up the flower smell. As in solvent extraction, the grease and fats are dissolved in alcohol to obtain the essential oils.

6. Expression is the oldest and least complex method of extraction. By this process, now used in obtaining citrus oils from the rind, the fruit or plant is manually or mechanically pressed until all the oil is squeezed out.

Blending

7. Once the perfume oils are collected, they are ready to be blended together according to a formula determined by a master in the field, known as a "nose." It may take as many as 800 different ingredients and several years to develop the special formula for a scent.

After the scent has been created, it is mixed with alcohol. The amount of alcohol in a scent can vary greatly. Most full perfumes are made of about 10-20% perfume oils dissolved in alcohol and a trace of water. Colognes contain approximately 3-5% oil diluted in 80-90% alcohol, with water making up about 10%. Toilet water has the least amount—2% oil in 60-80% alcohol and 20% water.

Aging

8 Fine perfume is often aged for several months or even years after it is blended. Following this, a "nose" will once again test the perfume to ensure that the correct scent has been achieved. Each essential oil and perfume has three notes: "Notes de tete," or top notes, "notes de coeur," central or heart notes, and "notes de fond," base notes. Top notes have tangy or citrus-like smells; central notes (aromatic flowers like rose and jasmine) provide body, and base notes (woody fragrances) provide an enduring fragrance. More "notes," of various smells, may be further blended.

Quality Control

Because perfumes depend heavily on harvests of plant substances and the availability of animal products, perfumery can often turn risky. Thousands of flowers are needed to obtain just one pound of essential oils, and if the season's crop is destroyed by disease or adverse weather, perfumeries could be in jeopardy. In addition, consistency is hard to maintain in natural oils. The same species of plant raised in several different areas with slightly different growing conditions may not yield oils with exactly the same scent.

Problems are also encountered in collecting natural animal oils. Many animals once killed for the value of their oils are on the endangered species list and now cannot be hunted. For example, sperm whale products like ambergris have been outlawed since 1977. Also, most animal oils in general are difficult and expensive to extract. Deer musk must come from deer found in Tibet and China; civet cats, bred in Ethiopia, are kept for their fatty gland secretions; beavers from Canada and the former Soviet Union are harvested for their castor.

Synthetic perfumes have allowed perfumers more freedom and stability in their craft, even though natural ingredients are considered more desirable in the very finest perfumes. The use of synthetic perfumes and oils eliminates the need to extract oils from animals and removes the risk of a bad plant harvest, saving much expense and the lives of many animals.

Source : http://www.enotes.com

Kimia dan Minyak Wangi.

Kategori Kimia Karbon
Kimiawan Minyak Wangi Menangkap Wewangian dari Alam
Oleh Carrie Dierks
Sumber: © 1998 Peregrine Publishers, Inc., All Rights Reserved

Jika akhir-akhir ini Anda berhenti sejenak di counter minyak wangi, Anda pasti mendapatkan banyak sekali jenis cologne dan minyak wangi yang baru di pasaran. Aroma baru dari Tommy Hilfiger, Coty, dan Clinique, di antaranya, bercirikan campuran unik yang berkisar dari "karangan bunga mawar, melati, dan bunga bakung" sampai kepada "bau pedas dari merica dan kayu manis". Aroma-aroma ini berkisar dari yang lembut sampai yang berani, tetapi semua mempunyai kesamaan: mereka menggunakan teknik labotarium modern untuk meniru dan meningkatkan wewangian yang berasal dari alam.

Waktu seorang pembuat minyak wangi meracik jenis wewangian yang baru, kerjanya sangat mirip seperti seorang komposer menciptakan sebuah melodi: mencampurkan beberapa jenis wewangian ke dalam suatu keseluruhan yang selaras. Berbagai macam bau di dalam minyak wangi dikelompokkan sebagai nada atas, nada tengah dan nada dasar. Nada atas biasanya berasal dari tumbuhan sejenis lemon dan jeruk, tercium oleh hidung Anda terlebih dahulu, karena molekulnya menguap dengan cepat. Nada dasar mempunyai bentuk molekul yang lebih besar dan lebih lambat menguap, baunya akan bertahan selama satu hari atau lebih, biasanya berasal dari zat yang dikeluarkan oleh hewan seperti musk (dari rusa Tibet) dan ambergris (dari paus sperma). Nada tengah merupakan pusat dari wewangian dan biasanya merupakan campuran dari bunga-bunga yang wangi seperti mawar, melati dan bunga bakung.

Dunia pembuatan minyak wangi mengalamami perubahan besar tahun 1921, dengan dikeluarkannya Chanel No. 5. Wewangian klasik ini adalah wewangian pertama yang mengkombinasikan sari bunga-bungaan dengan persenyawaan buatan yang disebut aldehida. Persenyawaan hidrokarbon ini tidak hanya memperkuat dan mengintensifkan aroma tradisional, tetapi juga memberikan kemungkinan untuk menciptakan banyak aroma-aroma baru yang tampaknya tidak terbatas. Ahli-ahli kimia sekarang ini sudah mengembangkan sekitar 3000 aroma buatan berbeda untuk dikerjakan.

Aroma khas dari sebuah persenyawaan tergantung dari struktur kimianya. Contohnya, menurut seorang ahli kimia organik Charles Sell dari perusahaan minyak wangi Quest International, sebuah molekul beraroma melati mempunyai "sebuah atom karbon sebagai pusat yang dikelilingi oleh tiga kelompok yang berbeda: sebuah kelompok dengan tingkat kepolaran yang tinggi, sebuah kelompok dengan tingkat kepolaran yang rendah, dan sebuah rantai karbon yang panjang." Aroma buah-buahan biasanya berasal dari jenis ester, yang dihasilkan di dalam buah ketika alkohol bereaksi dengan asam karbosilat.

Tetapi para ilmuwan tidak selalu dapat memperkirakan aroma yang akan dihasilkan oleh sebuah persenyawaan, karena tidak ada seorang pun yang tahu dengan pasti bagaimana molekul-molekul bereaksi dengan reseptor olfatoris (reseptor pembau) di hidung. Akibatnya, pembuatan minyak wangi dapat melibatkan banyak sekali percobaan.

Sebuah teknik yang dipakai oleh ahli minyak wangi untuk mengetahui susunan kimia dari sebuah aroma dengan tepat adalah headspace technology. Ini dilakukan dengan menempatkan sebuah kaca lengkung di atas sumber aroma tersebut, seperti bunga, dan menganalisa molekul-molekul di dalamnya. Dengan informasi ini, ahli kimia dapat menciptakan lagi wewangian tersebut di labotarium. Dari sana, selanjutnya terserah kepada pembuat minyak wangi dengan keahliannya untuk menciptakan sebuah campuran yang dapat menarik para pembeli.

(diterjemahkan oleh Shirley Deborah)
c 2000 Peregrine Publishers, Inc., All Rights Reserved

Sumber : http://www.chem-is-try.org/

Perfume In Ancient Life.

The word perfume comes from the Latin phrase, "per" meaning "through" and "fumus" meaning smoke." The French later gave the name parfum to the pleasant smells that drift through the air from burning incense. There are few periods of history that have not been influenced by perfume. The history of perfume is often intertwined with the history of the human race.
The first form of perfume was incense. Incense was first discovered by the Mesopotamians about 4,000 years ago. Ancient cultures burned many kinds of resins, bums and woods at their religious ceremonies. They often soaked the fragrant woods and resins in water and oil, and rubbed their bodies with the liquid. They also embalmed the dead with these perfumes.

We have learned from hieroglyphics on ancient Egyptian tombs that perfume played a part in the lives of the Egyptians. Incense made its way to Egypt around 3000 B.C. and with Queen Hatshepsut, it became very popular. She led expeditions in search of incense and other valuable commodities, and the results of which were later recorded on the walls of a temple created in her honor. In the temple was a botanical garden filled with incense trees recovered from these expeditions. Perfumes were found in the tombs of Egyptian pharaohs. It is probable that the use of aromatics in mystic rites predated the burning of incense and sweet herbs in religious ceremonies.
Until the beginning of Egypt's Golden Age, perfumes were used only in ritual for gods or pharaohs. Perfume was held in high esteem in Biblical times and there is frequent mention of fragrance in the Bible. In the New Testament, the three wise men carried gifts of gold, frankincense and myrrh to the infant Jesus. Long before, Moses was commanded by the Lord to "take unto thee sweet spices, stacte and onycha and galbanum...with pure frankincense...And thou shalt make it a perfume."

Frankincense is probably still the best known of the plants alluded to in the Bible. Burning incense was the privilege of priests in the earliest civilizations. The custom is still in use today in Catholic and High Episcopal churches.

Incense, aromatics, and perfumed oil became available to all Egyptians as the priests gradually relinquished their exclusive rights. Citizens were commanded to perfume themselves at least once a week. The Egyptians, fastidious in their personal habits, took elaborate baths, which were the forerunners of the luxurious bathing establishments of the Greeks and Romans. They soaked their skin in oils because it gave them pleasure, and helped protect their bodies from the drying effects of the torrid sun. Egyptians created many scented creams and emollients. They would shape them into cones and would melt them to cover their hair and bodies. Bathing was an enjoyable, social pleasure, sometimes washing as often as three times per day.

Egyptians carried perfume with them from birth until after their death. Many Egyptians put perfumes in their tombs to keep their skin silky smooth in the afterlife. Since the Egyptians believed that the soul ascended into heaven, relatives saw to it that perfume accompanied the spirit. Urns encrusted with gold, jars of delicate pottery, and chalcedonies filled with aromatics were placed in the tombs. So potent were some of the oils used, that 3,300 years after Tutankhamen's death, a trace of fragrance in the tightly sealed pots of unguents could be detected when the tomb was opened. Perfumes were used during the embalming process and took 40 to 70 days to complete! Powdered myrrh, cassia and other perfumes were used in the embalming process.

The consumption of aromatics probably reached its peak during this lavish period. Perfume shops were popular meeting places for almost everyone and the daily bath was an important activity of the Greek citizen. Different kinds of unguents were used simultaneously, with certain scents reserved for particular parts of the body. The Greeks are attributed with the art of making the first liquid perfume, although it was quite different from perfume as we know it today. Their perfumes were fragrant powders mixed with heavy oils, devoid of alcohol. The liquid was stored in elongated bottles made of alabaster and gold, called alabastrums.


Egyptians took pride in the beautiful containers that held their perfumes. These perfume bottles were also things of great beauty. The containers were made from materials such as alabaster, glass, ebony, and porcelain. Some perfume bottles were made from gold and stone. When glass first appeared in Egypt around 1558 BC, it was considered more precious than jewels.

Favorable climate conditions allowed Egypt to import many spices and aromatics from India, such as ginger, pepper and sandalwood. Egypt still holds a prominent place in perfume essential oil production, responsible for a significant portion of the world's jasmine production. The ancient Greeks and Romans learned about perfumes from the Egyptians. Trade between Crete and Egypt was healthy and symbiotic. Like the Egyptians, the most highly regarded flower of Cretans was the lily. The rose was also popular. Greek culture took a while to develop after that of the Cretans. Using a variety of fragrance carriers made from vegetable oils, such as olive oil and almond oil, they added essential oils made from lilies, roses, anise and orris root. Despite an earlier ban in the 6th century prohibiting the use of perfumes, men and women alike applied them lavishly, before and after baths, during the day and on all parts of the body.


The Roman public baths were spectacular, and the baths of the Emperor Caracalla were the most famous. One room, called the "unctuarium," had shelves with pots of unguents, jars of fragrant oils, and essences in bottles of varying size. The Romans indulged in the practice of applying perfume three times a day. Pet dogs and horses were also perfumed. At feasts, birds were released from their cages to dispense perfume from their wings; draperies, candlesticks, tables, and cushions were all perfumed. The servants wore musk, marjoram, spikenard, and other aromatics.

With Alexander the Great's invasion of Egypt in the 3rd century BC, the use of perfume and incense became even more widespread in Greece. The Greek Theophrastus of Athens discussed the various carriers of scents, the essential oils and their plant origins, and even the effect of various scents on our moods and thinking processes. He also researched how we perceive scent, and noted the connection between the perception of odors and taste.


Perhaps the most famous ruler of Egypt was Cleopatra. Cleopatra, well versed in the power of scent, was lavish in her use of perfume. After the assassination of Julius Caesar, she left Rome to become the queen of Egypt. There she greeted Mark Antony, a Roman politician, on a ship with perfumed sails. Cleopatra's arrival was announced by clouds of perfume before her barge came into view. Antony fell under her spell and in fact was so in love with her, that he killed himself upon hearing a false report that she was dead. Likewise, on hearing of Anthony's death, Cleopatra killed herself by provoking an asp to bite her.

Nefertiti, an Egyptian beauty from an earlier dynasty, surrounded herself with perfume: containers with myrrh, flacons filled with sweet oils, and handsomely ornamented jars of unguents.

The cedars of Lebanon have been famous throughout the ages. Cedar was used by King Solomon in the construction of the temple; oil of cedar was used to coat papyrus manuscripts to protect them from insects in the time of the Roman Emperor Augustus, and today cedar is sprayed in wardrobes to keep moths away.

The Phoenicians of Syria were the traders or salesman of antiquity. Aromatic gums brought overland from China were bought by Europeans who could afford them. Possession of the sweet-smelling herbs was evidence of wealth. It was prestigious to wear perfume, and owners of large amounts of oils and unguents were greatly respected.

Linking the past and present of the perfume industry are the Arabs. The process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation, (the procedure most commonly used today), was developed by Avicenna, the Arabian doctor unto was also a chemist. He first experimented with the rose. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes were mixtures of oil and crushed herbs, or petals which made a strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular.

During the reign of Catherine de Medici in France perfumes flourished. Catherine brought her own perfumer, Rene le Florentin from Italy, with her. His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulas could be stolen en route.

Source : www.perfumes.com

History of Perfume

Egyptian scene depicting the preparation of Lily perfume.

Etruscan perfume vase shaped like a female head.

The word perfume used today derives from the Latin "per fumum", meaning through smoke. Perfumery, or the art of making perfumes, began in ancient Mesopotamia and Egypt and was further refined by the Romans and Persians. Although perfume and perfumery also existed in East Asia, much of its fragrances are incense based.

The world's first recorded chemist is considered to be a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker who was mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the second millennium BC in Mesopotamia.She distilled flowers, oil, and calamus with other aromatics then filtered and put them back in the still several times.

Recently, archaeologists have uncovered what are believed to be the world's oldest perfumes in Pyrgos, Cyprus. The perfumes date back more than 4,000 years. The perfumes were discovered in an ancient perfumery. At least 60 stills, mixing bowls, funnels and perfume bottles were found in the 43,000-square-foot (4,000 m2) factory.In ancient times people used herbs and spices, like almond, coriander, myrtle, conifer resin, bergamot, as well as flowers.

The Arabian chemist, Al-Kindi (Alkindus), wrote in the 9th century a book on perfumes which he named Book of the Chemistry of Perfume and Distillations. It contained more than a hundred recipes for fragrant oils, salves, aromatic waters and substitutes or imitations of costly drugs. The book also described 107 methods and recipes for perfume-making, and even the perfume making equipment, like the alembic, still bears its Arabic name.

The Persian Muslim doctor and chemist Avicenna (also known as Ibn Sina) introduced the process of extracting oils from flowers by means of distillation, the procedure most commonly used today. He first experimented with the rose. Until his discovery, liquid perfumes were mixtures of oil and crushed herbs or petals, which made a strong blend. Rose water was more delicate, and immediately became popular. Both of the raw ingredients and distillation technology significantly influenced western perfumery and scientific developments, particularly chemistry.

Knowledge of perfumery came to Europe as early as the 14th century due partially to the spread of Islam. But it was the Hungarians who ultimately introduced the first modern perfume. Made of scented oils blended in an alcohol solution, the first modern perfume was made in 1370 at the command of Queen Elizabeth of Hungary and was known throughout Europe as Hungary Water. The art of perfumery prospered in Renaissance Italy, and in the 16th century, Italian refinements were taken to France by Catherine de' Medici's personal perfumer, Rene le Florentin. His laboratory was connected with her apartments by a secret passageway, so that no formulas could be stolen en route. France quickly became the European center of perfume and cosmetic manufacture. Cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence, which had begun in the 14th century, grew into a major industry in the south of France. During the Renaissance period, perfumes were used primarily by the wealthy to mask body odors resulting from infrequent bathing. Partly due to this patronage, the western perfumery industry was created. By the 18th century, aromatic plants were being grown in the Grasse region of France to provide the growing perfume industry with raw materials. Even today, France remains the centre of the European perfume design and trade.

Source : Wikipedia